DIY Installation Guide

So you want to install artificial grass? Not only are you closer to lower maintenance bills, you’re also helping to protect the environment by reducing water usage and eliminating the need for harsh chemicals like pesticides, as well as reclaiming your precious free time – all while ensuring that your lawn looks impeccable year-round.

Introduction to Installing Artificial Grass

So you want to install artificial grass? Not only are you closer to lower maintenance bills, you’re also helping to protect the environment by reducing water usage and eliminating the need for harsh chemicals like pesticides, as well as reclaiming your precious free time – all while ensuring that your lawn looks impeccable year-round.

With Purchase Green Artificial Grass, you can:

Since its establishment in 2008, Purchase Green has grown to become the second largest importer of artificial grass goods in the nation; and because of the brand’s position in the industry, we’re able to offer our customers competitive pricing, provide a reliable and diverse inventory of goods, and a lifetime product warranty.

 

By keeping up with advancements in manufacturing technology and applied sciences in material production, Purchase Green will undoubtedly have the perfect artificial landscape solution for your unique needs – whether you need a durable, aesthetic, temperature-treated, or antimicrobial turf.

Our staff of industry and product experts are happy and ready to build your free DIY quote today!

Buying and Receiving Your Grass

Get your grass how you want it, when you want it

Visit any of our local showrooms to see and feel the products for yourself, collect free samples, and speak with a product expert about the best grass for your home.

Shop any of our artificial grasses, accessories, and tools online; real Purchase Green associates are available through the website’s live chat if you have any questions.

Buy online and schedule a free will-call pick up at your nearest Purchase Green store.

Curbside deliveries are available for scheduling. Contact your local store for rates and availability

Our Locations

We’re growing fast and adding new locations all the time. Visit purchasegreen.com/locations for an up-to-date list of our showrooms.

DIY Installation Overview

1. Site Walk

Walk around the site and take a quick survey of the area and surroundings. Pre-planning helps ensure an easy and successful installation. Clear the work area, set up and stage tools for easy access, and create a pathway to the area in which you’ll be working.

2. Excavation

Excavate the project area to a depth of at least 3 inches. A sod cutter can make quick work of large areas while hand tools can be used for smaller areas. This is also the time to make any necessary changes to irrigation, drainage, or other underground elements.

3. Perimeter Board

After excavation, it’s optional but recommended to install a perimeter board, as the perimeter is the most susceptible to visible wear over time. The more robust and realistic-looking perimeter solution is Subgrade Bend-a-Board, a pliable composite board that is secured to the perimeter line with Mendocino stakes every 12-18 inches. Alternatively, Landscape Bend-a-Board or Wonder Edge are other cost-effective options for perimeter reinforcement.

4. Subbase

Choice of subbase will mostly depend on the type of installation. Putting greens require at least the top layer to be Decomposed Granite to achieve the desired ball roll, whereas standard landscape applications can work with any concrete/gravel mixture that is ¾” to fine, such as Class 2 Roadbase or Crushed Miscellaneous Base (CMB). Apply subbase in 2 inch layers, lightly wetting and compacting each layer 2-3 times. A vibratory plate compactor is recommended for ease of use, but smaller applications and hard-to-reach corners can be compacted with a hand tamper. The amount of subbase installed depends on the depth of excavation and how much of the artificial grass’ pile height you want to be exposed.

5. Underlayments

To deter weeds or critters and prevent subbase contamination, it is advised to install a landscape fabric, such as our Weed Barrier, either above or below the subbase depending on the type of soil in the area and if there will be dogs. If installing for a kid’s play area, you might also need to include a shock pad; or if you’re installing on a rooftop or patio deck, you may need a drainage mat such as AirDrain.

6. Measuring, Cutting, and Orienting

Leave the turf rolled out in the sun for 1-2 hours for increased pliability, and take this opportunity to inspect the material before making permanent alterations. If the install requires seams, orient the largest piece of grass first and rough-cut where needed; best practice is to leave a couple inches of excess on the perimeter just in case. Once your turf has been measured and oriented as desired, anchor one side of the installation with a row of nails placed 1 inch inward and spaced 6 inches apart. Then use a Carpet Kicker to fully lengthen the turf for a taut installation – anchoring with more nails as you continue to kick and stretch.

7. Seaming

The most common seaming method is in-line seams; these seam cuts are made parallel to the turf’s stitch rows. Where there’s a seam, pin back the two pieces of turf to create a 12 inch opening, then cut the needed length of seam tape. Anchor the tape ends with nails and drizzle the Supreme Seam glue down the center of the tape strip, then spread the glue evenly over the entire tape surface using a trow or piece of cardboard. Let the glue sit for about 15 minutes or until tacky, then unpin and drop one side of the seam at a time, firmly pressing the turf onto the tape and glue. Next, starting in the middle of the seam, hammer nails every 1-3 inches in a staggered arrangement along the seam line.

8. Secure the Perimeter

Complete the perimeter by first fine-cutting any extra material. If you’re installing without a perimeter board, carefully fine-cut the turf to exactly where the perimeter line will be and secure with nails every 3 inches. If you installed Subgrade Bend-a-Board, chisel and tuck the extra 2-3 inches of material over the board and nail the turf to the board with an 18 gauge pneumatic staple gun every 1-3 inches. Once the perimeter is secured, continue to hammer nails every 3 square feet within the interior. Be sure to spread the blades and fully expose the backing material when nailing so that no fibers are caught beneath the nail head, leaving the nail exposed.

9. Infill and Finishing Touches

Evenly and quickly apply infill by dumping one 40-50 bag of infill into the drop spreader, adjust the dial to the desired ratio of pounds per square foot (usually between 2 and 4), and walk at a moderate pace up and down the install site until all infill has been distributed. Work the infill into the grass fibers by using either a Turf Broom or Power Broom; continue until you cannot see any exposed infill. For edges and tight corners, you may need to spread the infill by hand.

Example Projects

When installing synthetic grass, follow best practices to ensure your lawn performs properly and lasts. Before starting your project, consider the various types of edges with which you’ll be working and make note of your area’s drainage requirements. Both of these considerations affect the labor required as well as the amount and type of materials you’ll need.

PHOTO A shows artificial grass that was installed in an open area without any constructed restrains (ex: walkways, patios, fencing, retaining wall). Instead, the edges are secured with nails and bark creates a transition in landscape, defining the perimeter line.

PHOTO B is an example of an application supported by constructed\restraints and the perimeter reinforced with subgrade bend-a-board – a perimeter board that requires constructed restraints to be installed. The existing irrigation system on this property was capped off.

When estimating a project with constructed restraints, additional material is often recommended to ensure there is enough working room to create a perfect fit along those perimeters. You don’t want to wind up with grass that is only a few inches short of what you need

PHOTO C shows a cleaned up a side yard. This area uses a drainage system with 3-inch corrugated, flexible pipe and inline drain catch basins. Water runoff travels down the structure’s gutters and downspouts through the attached fittings and underground drain system.


To ensure optimal drainage, we recommend using base materials to achieve gravity-fed drainage that flows down through porous artificial grass layers to a properly engineered drainage system that meets your local code requirements.

Perimeter Framing Options

Patio and Flagstones

These can sit nicely on top of synthetic turf and help to create great contrasts. Invest in stones that are sturdy and will sit at least 1/2 to 1 inch below the turf pile height.

Between Concrete Slabs and Pads

Drainage is the most important aspect of this design treatment. Several inches of drain rock at the base layer, set prior to the installation of compacted materials, can improve drainage. Also keep in mind the pile height of the turf and how much of it you want exposed, as that will determine how much base to install.

Against Concrete Walkways and Drives

Grasses are cut to the exact shape of the hard edge so you get a perfect fit. Grasses can be set below, at or above the grade of the concrete, depending on the final look and feel you wish to achieve.

Natural Rock

Grasses can be tucked and secured under any rock material. Be sure to install sturdy, durable landscape fabrics underneath the turf to protect against erosion over time and for underground pest control. Loose, decorative rocks, stones and lava are an attractive finish to perimeter lines.

Retaining Walls and Garden Beds

Perimeters with hard elements in areas where natural growth, weeds or other organic material would otherwise touch the turf is a great way to provide a solid edge from between native plants and your new artificial grass.

Basic Installation Technique

Advanced Installation Technique

Job Site Preparation

Be sure to create an installation plan. Examples are shown at right. Take care to make note of, and reroute if needed, underground utility lines.
Remove all organic materials and other debris. Material left under the installed surfaces may decompose or shift, causing the compacted subbase to concave and lead to site failures.
Organic materials include, but are not limited to: Sod, grass, weeds, roots (live or dead), bark, nuts, fruits, leaves, and rocks.
For projects with constructed restraints, ensure the edges are excavated to the proper depth, which is approximately 3 to 4 inches below
grade. All root systems within the project area should be thoroughly removed if possible.

Purchase Green recommends using Weed Barrier to create a layer between your native soil and your sub-base. Weed Barrier will also help
enhance stabilization and add further protection against rodents and burrowing creatures/insects.
The Weed Barrier should be installed over the entire project area and overlap by 2 to 3 inches.
Ensure the fabric has as few wrinkles as possible to allow for optimal sub-surface drainage. Subsurface fabrics like Weed Barrier will also help add dimensional stability to your artificial grass project.

Job Site Preparation

Using sub-grade Bend-a-Board usually adds about $0.30 per square foot to the total job cost and is optional but recommended. The use of a perimeter board in artificial grass installations mainly serves a structural purpose, providing a sturdy boundary along the outermost edges of your project
to provide a more robust installation – as the perimeter is the weakest area of artificial turf installations. The sub-grade Bend-a-Board also adds an aesthetic bonus, giving the look of a manicured edge due to the way the turf is tucked OVER the board, creating realistic curvatures.


Purchase Green recommends that the top of your Bend-A-Board and the top of your subbase should be about a half-inch below the grade of any bordering sidewalks, patios, and walkways to maximize the amount of pile height that is exposed above the adjacent flat work for the most realistic appearance. However, this gap between the height of the base and constructed restraint can be greater or less depending on the pile height of the turf being installed and the personal preference for aesthetic.

Subbase Selection

Subbase is a non-expansive, crushed rock mixture and a critical component to the installation process as it replaces the expansive native soil you’ve just excavated. Proper subbase selection, installation, grading, and compaction also allows for ideal drainage conditions. When it comes to base selection, there are a few options – though dependent upon the type of installation and project budget.

Class 2 Road Base and Crushed Miscellaneous Base are typically going to be the least expensive and tend to compact better. However, they do not create a perfectly smooth surface and might not drain as well compared to other subbases. On the other hand, Decomposed Granite – another popular base option, drains better than Class 2 or CMB and creates a smooth finish; but it is also more costly and doesn’t compact as tightly.

When choosing which subbase is best, first consider the type of application you’re installing for. Most regular landscape installations do well with either Class 2 or CMB; whereas putting greens, seeing as they require a much smoother finish, will perform better with DG. Another consideration to make when selecting the base, is your budget. Take a putting green install for example; DG is recommended but it’s a bit more expensive, so the cost can add up. If cost is a concern, you may choose to use a combination of base materials instead – the bottom couple inches being Class 2 or CMB, and only the top inch in DG.

The amount of subbase required for any particular job will also vary. Seeing as rockeries or landscape supply stores can sell by either the ton or cubic yard, simply contact your closest supplier and provide them with the job’s total square footage and how many inches you need to fill. Then, discuss delivery pricing and availability.

Subbase Compaction

Now it’s time to install your subbase. Depending on where the subbase was delivered and it’s distance from the install site, the base may need to be shoveled into wheelbarrows, dumped, and evenly distributed using either a shovel, a landscape grader, or even a piece of 2×4. It is advised that the subbase be laid and compacted in lifts – or layers. Depending on the excavation depth, these lifts will be 1-3” thick. Additionally, when installing base, depending on the pile height of the grass and your preferences on the finished look, leave between a ½” to an 1” of space below the adjacent hard edge. This spacing can affect how much of a grass’ pile is visible – taller grasses may need closer to a 1” base gap, while a shorter grass is more visible with a 1⁄2” gap. Proper installation will also require you to lightly wet each base lift with a hose and compact with a vibratory plate compactor; repeated 2 to 3 times for each lift in order to achieve the desired 95-98% compaction rate.

Alternatively, you may use a sod roller in lieu of a plate compactor – a more cost-effective option, though it may not compact as tightly and you will need to install the base in more lifts. For example, with a plate compactor, you may only need to lay 2-3 lifts, but with a roller, that could increase to 4-6. Also, while the majority of properties will already have a grade or a slope to them, in the rare instances where the front or backyard is flat, you must ensure that the base is installed to achieve a 2% fall so that water drains away from the property.

Grass Grain and Stretching

Begin by unrolling the turf and leaving in full sun exposure for at least one hour, preferably two, in order for the backing to become more pliable and to help the grass fibers to stand. Before making any cuts, it’s crucial to inspect the turf for any potential defects or damages. This is especially important as the product cannot be returned once the material has been cut into.

Next, you will need to appropriately position the turf. For the most attractive view, orient the turf in such a way that the fibers are pointing toward the main vantage-point. For example, if you’re installing in a front yard, the main vantage-point will be the street, where people drive and walk by; but if you’re installing in a backyard, the main vantage-point might be the house. However, this can be disregarded if there’s focus on reducing material waste on odd-shaped installations. Additionally, when installing multiple pieces of turf, always be sure the grass’ grain is pointing in the same direction for each piece.

Once the turf has been positioned, rough-cut to fit the general shape of the perimeter, but be sure to leave a couple inches of excess material, leaving room for error. Next, you will need to thoroughly stretch the turf to ensure a taut install. Start by anchoring the top perimeter edge with 5” non- galvanized nails, placed 1” inward from the edge and spaced 6” apart. On turnkey installations, there would be two to three assisting installers using carpet kickers to stretch the turf, but DIYer’s can use a carpet kicker, too. After the row of anchor nails have been set along the top perimeter, kick and stretch the turf outward from the anchoring nails. As you do, loose turf will begin to bunch, then hammer a nail where the turf is now pulled taut, securing the stretch. Continue stretching and nailing in horizontal rows with nails every 2-3 square feet – or approximately 2’ feet between each row and 2’ between each nail, like a grid.

Seaming

If you’re installing multiple pieces of turf, you will want to dry seam next. Dry seaming is a method to help prepare for and ensure an invisible seam, by allowing you to freely position multiple pieces of turf before permanently securing.

But first, you must consider which seaming method is best for the installation’s layout. The two most common seaming methods are in-line seams and butt seams. In-line seams are seams cut parallel to the stitch rows of the artificial turf backing; whereas butt seams are cut perpendicular to the stitch rows. To the right is an example of where both of these methods might be used on one installation:

To prepare for an in-line seam, grab the edge of a piece of turf that is running parallel to the stitch rows and peel back a few inches, revealing the backing material. Then, with your utility knife, cut into the backing directly alongside the outermost stitch row – leaving the stitch row itself flush with the edge. Next, take your conjoining piece and peel back as well, revealing the backing; but this time, cut off the outermost stitch row. This leaves you with just enough material on the edge to maintain the gauge between the individual pieces – maintaining the gauge will ensure that the seam is invisible.
Then, unfold the pieces back together and brush up the fibers along the seam to look for visible lines. If all looks well, you may temporarily hold the two pieces in place with nails approximately every 6” on each side, hammered halfway – or, if you’re ready, you may begin securing your seams!

As for butt seams, take your conjoining pieces and position them so that the stitch rows perfectly line up, and leave no gap – which may require you to further trim the edges if the original cuts were not straight. The fibers should all be pointing in the same direction with no visible lines. If your installation has both in-line and butt seams, where these two methods meet is referred to as a T-seam. If there are T-seams, be sure to secure the in-line seams first, and then the butt seams.

Depending on the chosen installation method or budget, your seaming materials will be either 5” nails or the combination of seaming tape, seaming glue, and nails. Seaming with nails is going to be much faster and with a lower cost, but also much less robust – as nails become loose over time; whereas seaming tape, glue, and nails creates a stronger hold, but these materials cost more.

To seam with 5” nails, hammer a nail every 3-6” down the seam line – staggered on each side. Or, to seam with tape and glue, you’ll need to peel back the turf once more and lightly pin the folds open with nails. Then, lay your tape inside the gap – nailing the ends to hold it in place – and slowly drizzle the glue down the center, but not too much because next you’ll lightly spread the glue across the entire tape’s surface. Then, depending on the weather, the glue will need to sit between 10 and 20 minutes so that it gets tacky; once it is, unpin and unfold the pieces back together, pressing down onto the tape and glue firmly.

Additionally, keep in mind that it will take roughly 24 hours for the glue to fully cure, so in order to complete the installation without disturbing the curing seams, hammer a nail every 3-6”, staggered down the seam line for reinforcement. For installations utilizing tape and glue, it will also be best to keep foot traffic sparse for the first day.

Perimeter Cuts

The most vulnerable part of any installation is the perimeter, so adequate time and attention must be given to ensuring the entire perimeter line is thoroughly secured. Begin with fine-cutting the material’s edge..

Fine-cutting the perimeter on basic installations is simply cutting the material to exactly where the perimeter line will be. Just fold the grass back about a half inch and gently cut, a little bit at a time, while periodically setting the turf back down to see if it falls in place correctly. Be sure to make small, incremental cuts when fine-cutting. Then, to secure, hammer 5” non- galvanized nails about ½”-1” inward and spaced 2 – 4” apart along the perimeter edge.

It is also recommended to inspect the perimeter after nailing to feel for areas where the turf might still be a little loose. Every few inches, firmly tap the surface along the perimeter edge and wherever you hear a gap between the base and the turf, hammer another nail.

Depending on the shape of the area, relief cuts may be needed along curved edges as well. Relief cuts (bottom right) allow the artificial grass to more easily conform to a curved shape than it would otherwise. The goal is to minimize relief cuts, but we use them as needed to ensure a clean look to the installation.

NEVER MAKE PERIMETER CUTS UNTIL ALL IMPORTANT SEAMS ARE DONE!

If you make the perimeter cuts before your seams and you make a seaming mistake, your grass pieces may no longer fit together.

Benefits of Infill

The final step in the installation process is adding infill. The amount of infill that is needed depends on the density and pile height of your artificial grass as well as the expected foot traffic. As a rule, Purchase Green recommends infill be added at a rate of 2-3 lbs. per square foot. Infill is important for the long-term success of your artificial grass installation because it serves three primary purposes.

Infill protects the primary backing from UV exposure

Like anything left outside, artificial grass backings can suffer from exposure to the sun. Coating the primary backing with infill adds protection which helps to extend the useful life of your artificial grass product.

Infill adds weight

Artificial grass is like carpet in that it will expand and contract with changes in temperature. The addition of weight in conjunction with using a sufficient number of nails helps to ensure your artificial grass doesn’t end up looking like carpet that needs to be stretched.

Infill adds ballast

By “adding ballast” you are helping support the fibers against matting down and the resulting wear patterns. Another way to describe this is to say infill helps to improve the “memory” of the fibers.

You may have heard that infill isn’t necessary. Don’t believe it. Artificial grass is an investment and infill is terrific for helping to protect it so it always looks and performs the way it is intended.  Infill will also be required to qualify for Purchase Green’s product warranty.

Types of Infill

Silica Sand

Silica Sand as an artificial grass infill is the most common and the lowest in cost, and it will suffice for most regular landscape applications. However, silica sand is not suitable for pet use, as it will absorb and hold onto the ammonia in urine, creating a pungent odor. This infill type also comes with a California Prop 65 Warning, but this is only applicable during the installation process, where the infill can get dusted up and inhaled.

Zeodorizer

Zeodorizer infill contains zeolite, which is a natural, inert, non-toxic substance primarily used for its odor reducing capabilities. Zeolite is a negatively charged, honeycomb-shaped molecular structure which absorbs liquids and gases like a magnet to prevent ammonia from forming a gas. (The ammonia buildup in pet urine is what you typically associate with the smell.) This molecular structure holds the ammonia until the sodium ions found in rain water release the magnetic ability which forces the odor causing bacteria down into the ground ultimately “flushing out” the ammonia smell. The purity rate is the key component in the ability of the Zeolite infill to perform its intended function. A maintenance item to pay attention to when using a Zeolite infill is that it is best NOT to flush your turf from a garden hose when using zeolite for urine odor control because the hose water is usually filtered and will end up being encapsulated in the Zeolite granule in lieu of the urine. Zeodoizer infill also cools the turf’s surface temperature by absorbing heat from the available sunlight, condensing the sunlight, and through evaporation of the water along with transpiration from the earth’s surface to the atmosphere, the result is cooler surface temperatures.

HeroFill

HeroFill is a premium infill used in a variety of application types and is also strongly recommended for pet areas, as it is infused with Zinc, ZPT, and ZOE to inhibit the growth of mildew and algae, effectively controlling odors. This infill is sub rounded to resist compaction over time, resulting in better blade ballast over the life of the product (when used in sufficient quantities). HeroFill is also produced with a vinyl coating to help encapsulate the silica dust and reduce moisture absorption.

Use a drop spreader to evenly distribute your infill. Once all the infill has been deposited, use a Power Broom (more on the next page) to help further distribute the infill and to help it settle down and between the blades of grass. If a Power Broom is unavailable, you can use a plastic bristle rake such as Purchase Green’s Turf Broom.

Finishing Touches

After installing your artificial grass, Purchase Green recommends using a Power Broom to brush up the turf’s blades, efficient for fluffing matted fibers and helping infill settle. The Power Broom features stiff plastic bristles that spin on a rotating drum. This spinning action helps each individual blade of grass stand up tall and straight. Using a Power Broom on your unrolled grass prior to installation will make installation easier as the grass will be better stretched and will receive infill more easily. Once your grass is installed, one more pass with the Power Broom will give the blades optimal lift and really enhance the wow-factor.

The Power Broom is also a fantastic tool for helping to remove traffic wear patterns on your artificial grass lawn and restore it to a like-new appearance. If your grass has begun to take on a matted look, a few minutes spent with a Power Broom will restore your grass to its original splendor.

Power Brooms are typically used during the initial installation of your lawn and as called for by periodic maintenance. Some Purchase Green stores have Power Brooms available for both rental and for purchase; they may also be rented at most power equipment rental shops.

DO NOT USE METAL RAKES OR BRUSHES as they break down the blades, making them weaker, frayed and prone to failure. In addition, the use of metal rakes or brushes for installation or grooming may void your Purchase Green Lifetime Warranty.

For manual brushing or brooming Purchase Green offers the Turf Broom. The Turf Broom is a synthetic bristle rake that is suitable for small artificial grass projects or when a Power Broom is unavailable.

Frequently Asked Questions

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

Most DIY projects cost between $3 – $6 per square foot for turf, tools, and accessories.

HOW DO I CHOOSE THE PERFECT GRASS?

First, decide on your application. In other words, will your project be for a landscape, pets, a putting green, a playground or for sports? Second, think about how much foot traffic you expect on your grass. A lot? A little? A medium amount? Third, consider the profile of the grass. What kind of finish do you prefer? What about texture and color? How important is shape and temperature? Once you go through those three steps we’ll be able to help you identify the perfect grass for you.

WHAT TYPE OF MAINTENANCE IS REQUIRED?

There is very little maintenance associated with artificial grass. That is, after all, one of the reasons people make the switch! However, over time, especially in high-traffic areas, it may be useful to brush the grass up every once in a while to keep the blades standing tall. Our Turf Broom is perfect for that. You may also elect to periodically use a leaf blower to clear the grass of leaves and other debris, as well as apply Turf Bomb weekly if you have pets. Other than that, there isn’t much else required.

HOW LONG DOES ARTIFICIAL GRASS LAST?

The majority of our grasses have a Lifetime Warranty and an expected useful lifespan of 20 years.

WHAT ABOUT PETS?

All Purchase Green grasses are safe for people and pets. If your pets will be using the grass as a restroom then you definitely want to use a premium infill like HeroFill or Zeodorizer. These infills are terrific for reducing odor from pet urine. You should also consider shorter, less dense grass for your project as thick, tall grass can be more difficult to clean. Generally though, solid waste is cleaned the same as on natural lawns and liquid waste drains away – though a spritz with the hose once in a while won’t hurt. A weekly or bi-weekly application of our enzymatic cleaning solution Turf Bomb is also highly recommended to mitigate the build up of odors from urine.

THE BACKING IS CRIMPED AND SOME OF THE GRASS BLADES ARE BENT. HOW DO I FIX THIS?

Artificial grass is made on machines that roll the grass as it’s produced. Sometimes there may be sections where creases form on the roll. Fixing this usually means nothing more than unrolling your grass and leaving it to warm in the sun for a few hours. This will loosen up the crimps and straighten out the blades. Installing in colder climates and/or colder seasons means some manual stretching may be needed. If that’s the case, Purchase Green has carpet kickers available that are designed for this process.

OK GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT…CAN I REALLY DO THIS MYSELF?

Yes! If you’re somewhat handy and – more importantly – not afraid of hard work, then you can join the thousands of other Purchase Green customers who’ve installed their own grass. The hardest part will be excavating the project area and building the sub- base. It’s not complicated work but it is labor intensive. You’ve also got to have a plan for what to do with the excavated soil. The trickiest part is seaming. Seaming is as much an art as a skill. A good seam is invisible whereas a bad seam is very visible. Go slow and remember to measure twice (or thrice) and cut once.

HOW MUCH WATER WILL I SAVE?

An average size lawn is between 600 and 700 square feet, which will use between 24,000 and 36,000 gallons of water each year. With artificial grass that water consumption is virtually eliminated, as is lawn mower maintenance, gas, fertilizers and other chemicals. That’s why we say that a typical artificial grass lawn will pay for itself in 3-7 years.

SO WHAT MAKES PURCHASE GREEN SO GREAT?

We believe it’s our dedication to providing the best products, the best prices and the best customer service that distinguishes us from our competitors. We have everything you need all in one place and Purchase Green folks are always happy, helpful and happy to help! Plus we have dozens of different grasses in stock at all stores to suit any project need. And our grasses feature Purchase Green’s Lifetime Warranty so you’ll always have peace of mind.

WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT REFLECTIVE SURFACES AND MELTING?

Artificial grass has a very high melting point – around 200 °F. But reflective surfaces can generate heat in excess of that mark. So, when installing your artificial grass, take note of which direction reflective surfaces, such as your windows, face. If they face west or (especially) south, consider installing an outdoor solar screen or protective window film. These relatively inexpensive solutions will also contribute to better energy-efficiency in your home. Also, be sure to check neighboring windows to see if they may be the culprit. You may also take note of where reflections hit the surface and install your artificial grass such that it isn’t bearing the brunt of the reflected heat.

Thank you for downloading our DIY Install eBook – we hope you found this guide to be helpful! For even more informative content, browse our website or blog, or follow us on social media for landscape inspiration!

If any questions remain, you can speak with our industry and product expert staff on our website’s live chat or by calling your local store. Our showrooms are also open, where you may view and feel the turf for yourself, collect free samples, and get your DIY material quote! Installation services are available as well

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